varanasi.
train ride to varanasi: luckily i got a bunk bed. a 20 hour trip is nicer if you can lie down once a while. only the window that doesn't close properly is a real nuisance. i put on all the cloth and declare it a high altitude mountain experience. as punctually as the train started, after 6 hours it already is has a 2 hour delay. who cares, i don't have to catch a flight... finally i arrive in varanasi.
the most exotic place i've ever seen. i wonder if it still feels the same.
drop my stuff at the guesthouse continue right to the the ganges. arrive at the gath with the burning places. it is not as shocking as it was when i observed it for the first time. yet, it's impressive and disturbing at the same time: you vanish within a few minutes. gone. and what's left? if you're lucky some good footprints and memories of the people who stay behind. well, it could be worse. but then it doesn't really matter anymore, i guess it's better to matter while you're here...
i continue along the river and through the narrow labyrinth of the old town. the usual suspects are still present: the 'show sadus', who allow pictures for very good money. what a scam. if they want i take their pictures for good luck.
in the evening: a religious festival at the ganges with thousands of people. noisy, crowded, interesting.
5am. getting up for the reason i returned to varanasi: the bathing of the pilgrims at sunrise. compared to my fist visit it has changed dramatically. there are so many boats that you can't get really get close to the shore. not really picture heaven anymore. i get off at a temple instead of doing a boat round trip. here's a bit more action. so i stay for 3 hours and sit and observe. yes and take a few pictures: pilgrims, sadus, shaving and hair cutting, religious lessons and discourses. a feast for the eyes and the ears. finally, the india trip has begun.
i meet bernhard, a nice geman guy. guess what? he's from a neigbouring village close to heidelberg. it's still a small world.
more walks through the lanes and some exploration of local food.
take a rickshaw to the train station. some bargaining. the guys don't really seem to want to work. at least not for my price... 'minimum 70 rupies!', i get it for 40, only to find out it's 20 for locals. boy , i'm getting soft...where are my skills gone? maybe i have lost my competitive attitude...
excitement at the train station: i can wait for my train in a special tourist area, but they don't announce the train (at least not in a way i understand). according to the schedule my train must have left by now... strange feeling, espcially considering the booking situation. finally i get the information that the train arrived. so i run. but i can't find my waggon. so i continue to run. and it's the longest train i've ever seen. and where's my coach? the very last one. no kidding.
surprise! it's very convenient, clean and silent. you can sleep and even close the window.
india - everything is possible!