agra.
midnight the train to agra arrives: gondwana express. the 2nd class looks like a suicide operation to me: people piled up in the aisle, it looks and smells like toilet. we run up and down the train endlessly until i find a guy in the chaos who seems to be responsible for something. i try to get sleepers for us. '1000 rupees each.' - 'sure, and 10 women are included to serve me?'. annik is about to leave because the price is just ridiculously high. i don't move, i know these guys. just wait. after some moments this typical shaking movement of the head appears. he doesn't answer regarding the price. well there's always time to negotiate later, we get in. what an unexpected surprise. 2 sleepers although it's all booked out. after a while the conductor arrives at my bunk. he doesn't say a word so i just continue to make myself comfortable. maybe he forgot about the money? not. '500' - 'fine. for both of us.' i give him the money without allowing more discussion as it is clear the price was meant for one person. we have our beds and he's made his extra money anyway. despite the lack of space i find sleep for a few hours.
arrival in agra at 4 pm. rickshaw negotiations as usual. 50 rupees. i offer 10. 'no, very early, accident, detour, impossible'. i just walk on to the next guy. we end up with the possible 20 rupees as nobody is really eager to get up. the fun seems to be on my side. we're not an easy prey anymore - after only 3 days. a swabian who likes to bargain must be the worst enemy for the indians.
we're picked up by a guide who tells us there's a special place opposite the taj mahal across the river. after a reconfirmation with a security guard we follow. even from the outside it's already obvious how impressive the building is. after we've crossed the river we have a perfect breathtaking view. morning fog, sunrise, perfect colors. we chase from point to point for the best pictures. i'm almost shocked by the beauty. i've never seen anything like that when it comes to architecture. it has a mysterious ambience like machu picchu. if i had to invent this place this is how i would do it. looks like an impressionist's painting. i have goosebumps. i stand there in silence and absorb it. this moment alone was worth the trip to india. after 2 hours the show is over.
visit at the red fort. not very impressive after the taj mahal. packed with people, rotten down. the old splendour can only be assumed. trip to the markets. at the meat market all the butchers want a picture taken. as usual i have a chat with the people and gather the kids around me. they don't know timbuktu here :-). we're invited to the driver's place. the whole family is presented (it's so many. is this including the neighbours?). the kids go crazy over the picture shooting. they follow us with lots of yelling through the narrow lanes when we're back in the ricksaw.
taj mahal is a big disappointment after the morning. packed, noisy, hectical. no chance to enjoy it. i do a few fun pictures which causes irritation and laughter. i'm pretty sure that kind of pictures were not done before. usually it's sunday dresses and serious faces. while we withdraw i realize that it was rather empty before. our queue was 10 metres now it's more than 100. i have to get out of here.
ride to ajmer. at 1st glance the bus is excellent: spacious, ac, nice seats. when it starts it's clear that we'll have a tough night. noisy like in a tank.